accessory/jewelery

designers

introduction

Accessory design encompasses designing of all accessories that complete the fashion image. Designing of millinery, jewellery, handbags, shoes, belts, hosiery, accessories for the head/hair etc. are part of accessory design programme. While all these design specialists have worked extensively to create a niche for Indian accessories what deserves special mention is the gem and jewellery trade.

India is the largest consumer of gold amounting to about one third to one fourth of the world production. Marked at a turnover of Rs. 40,000 crores it is an ever growing industry. Indian gem and jewellery industry contributes 43% to the world's total exports. Designing of jewellery had been dominated for centuries by craftsman to whom expertise was handed over from their fathers and forefathers. With exports in this sector showing tremendous growth potential training facilities have opened up in a number of institutions.

nature of work

Accessory designers work very much like fashion designers. Before creating a design for an accessory they carry out detailed research. They use their creativity to design accessories, make sample pieces and present their design pieces for marketing.

In the traditional studio based design sector crafts people have been working to prepare each article individually. Their work is sold through local outlets, at tourist destinations, emporias and through craft melas. Contemporary accessory designers draw upon traditional craft for creating new and attractive design for fashion conscious clients.

Jewellery designers create new designs for gold, silver and precious metal jewellery. In the export trade often jewellery designs are made to suit the taste of peoples of the country taking the finished product. Large exporters employ designers or select designs from eminent free lancers.

Gemologists are experts in assessing the quality, value and use of gems for jewellery. They are experts in grading, sorting and setting of gems in various metals.

Accessory designers specialize in designing of accessories such as belts, ties, scarves, shoes, purses, bags, wallets, jewellery etc. Accessory designers are stylists for men's, ladies or children's accessories for which they have received special training.

work environment

Accessories are of varied sorts. The work environment hence may be influenced by the nature of raw materials being used. Shoe and leather accessory designers work with leather or other tough materials while jewellery designers work with precious metals. Studio or workshop layout is planned to suit the nature of work. While researching considerable travel is involved.

personal characteristics

Accessory designers are very creative. The profession requires an eye for detail, good observation, fashion awareness and precision. Accessory designing requires working with materials, which are expensive and precious. A meticulous and precise approach is required.

employment avenues

As with most creative fields, new entrants begin as apprentices. They later work with jewellery houses or freelance.

Gemologists work as diamond and gem exporters, dealers, graders, assorters, home jewellery store owners, brokers and distributors, gem consultants, appraisers, valuers; jewellery designers, bench jewellers, jewellery photographers etc.

Gem sorting and marketing, gem shaping, inlay work, engraving are other options. With exports in jewellery showing a boom the opportunities in trading have increased. Branded and designers jewellery offer openings for dealership and have given good options to designers.

Earnings

Beginers may earn Rs 3500 to Rs 5000. Established designers earn as per their name, exclusivity of the design and the clientele they design for.

study/training

Accessory design incorporates mainly designing leather goods, jewellery and accessories to accompany garments. The courses vary in duration. Most courses can be taken after Class XII (any discipline). Accessory design course t National Institute of Fashion Technology is a 3-year course. Courses in gem and jewellery designing are both short and long duration. The next section gives details.

courses/institutions

Jewellery design/Accessory design

NIFT. Campus, Opp. Gulmohar Park, Hauz Khas, New Delhi-110 016-The accessory design course at NIFT focuses on designing of precious and costume jewellery and other accessories in a 3 year diploma course for school leavers. Admission is made through a written test, group discussion and situational test. (For details refer to chapter on Fashion Design)

Srimati Nathibai Damodar Training (SNDT) Women's University, Mumbai.

J D Institute of Fashion Technology, No. 3 Lai Haveli, Hauzkhas Village,

New Delhi -110016. Website - www.jdinstitiute.com

Lisa Institute of Fashion (P) Ltd., J-l/164, Rajouri Garden, New Delhi-110024.

Courses: Short and Long term courses on Jewellery Designing.

Aalisha Polytechnic L-2/47, New Mahavir Nagar, Outer Ring Road, Vikas Puri, New Delhi - 110018 offers Short and Long term courses in Jewellery Designing.

Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, Rajasthan Bhavan, Jaipur -302 003.

Jewellery Export Promotion Council, D-15 Commerce Centre, Tardeo, Mumbai-400 034.

Jewellery Design and Technology Institute (JDTI), Noida offers four long-term courses and twelve specialised short term courses.

Jewellery Product Development Centre (JPDC), F-Block, Jhandewalan, Flatted Factories Complex, Rani Jhansi Road, New Delhi-110055.

Gemmology

Gemmology Institute of India, 29, Gurukul Chambers, Mumbadevi Rbad, Mumbai - 400 002. Courses are in grading and cutting of gems and diamonds

Gemstones Artisans Training school, Jhalana Mahal, Jaipur - 302 017. Courses are in cutting and polishing of diamonds and coloured stones.

Indian Gemological Institute, Nirmal Towers 10th Floor, 26, Barakhamba Road, New Delhi-110 001.

Jhaveri centre for Diamond Technology, Shri Bhagubhai Mafatlal Polytechnic, Vile Parle (W), Mumbai - 400056 offers course in Diamond Technology.

Indian Diamond Institute, Sumul Dairy Road, Katargam Post Box 508, Surat - 395 008. (The Institute conducts courses in Jewellery Design and machine cast jewellery manufacturing, Diamonds sorting/grading/bruting/ polishing/ sawing and in comupter aided jewellery designing)

St.Xavier's College, Geology Department, Mumbai - 400 001.

Small Industries Service Institute, 65/1, GST Road, Chennai - 600 032.

Sindhar Institute of Gemology (Singem). Website-www.sindhar.com

Singem offers a one-year full time extensive career programme with specialised modules in the study of diamonds, gemstones and jewellery of international standard. It caters to various processes in jewellery manufacturing.

Name of Colleges/univesity/institutes